Replacing your steel winch cable with synthetic rope is a straightforward conversion: pull the old cable off, smooth the drum, swap the roller fairlead for an aluminum hawse fairlead, attach the rope to the drum, and spool it on under tension. The whole job takes about an hour, and the payoff is a line that is far lighter, easier to handle, and safer if it ever breaks under load.
Safety First
Old steel cable is the most dangerous part of this job. Broken strands form sharp fishhooks that slice gloves and hands, so wear heavy leather work gloves from the first touch to the last. Wear eye protection too. When you tension the new rope for the first time, hang a damper (a winch weight blanket or a heavy jacket) on the line and keep everyone clear of the line’s path. If you are still weighing the decision, read the synthetic rope vs steel cable comparison before you buy.
What You Will Need
- A synthetic winch rope sized for your winch (match the diameter and length your winch maker specifies for your model)
- An aluminum hawse fairlead (replaces your roller fairlead)
- Sandpaper or a file, plus a wire brush
- Electrical tape, zip ties, leather gloves, and eye protection
- Basic hand tools to remove the fairlead and fairlead bolts
Buy the rope from a reputable maker and read its included instructions before you start. Attachment methods vary by manufacturer, and the rope maker’s instructions win over any generic guide.
Step 1: Remove the Old Steel Cable
Put the winch in freespool and pull the cable off by hand rather than powering it out. Powering out under no load still works the motor and builds heat in the drum brake for no reason. Wear your gloves the entire time. Steel cable under any tension can snap back, and the broken ends are razor sharp.
Once the cable is off, note how it was attached to the drum. Take a photo. Most drums use one of three methods: a set screw clamping the cable end, a hole through the drum the cable feeds through, or a small anchor stud the cable loops around. You will reuse the same attachment point for the rope. Coil the old cable, tape the ends so the strands cannot spring loose, and recycle it. Do not toss it in household trash where the loose strands can injure someone.
Step 2: Prepare the Drum
Synthetic rope is strong but vulnerable to cuts and abrasion, so the drum surface matters far more than it did for steel. Inspect the full drum for burrs, sharp spots, rust ridges, and grooves worn in by the old cable. File or sand every sharp spot smooth. A few minutes here prevents a sliced rope later.
One more consideration: synthetic rope does not like excessive heat, and your winch’s internal drum brake generates heat during power-out operation. Most drums handle synthetic fine, but check your winch maker’s guidance for your specific model. Some makers approve synthetic only on certain drums or recommend against it on winches where the brake heat is a known issue. A thin coat of paint on a sanded bare-steel drum also keeps rust from forming under the rope.
Step 3: Attach the Rope to the Drum
Feed the rope’s attachment end onto the drum using the same method your winch used for the cable. The three common methods:
- Drum link with set screw: Some winches use a small metal link or puck on the drum with a set screw. Seat the rope end in the link and tighten the set screw firmly.
- Through-hole with a knot: Feed the rope end through the drum hole and tie a secure knot on the other side. Take a photo of the knot style on the rope maker’s instructions and copy it. A wrap of electrical tape around the knot keeps the tail tidy.
- Anchor stud or slot: Loop the rope around the stud or through the slot exactly the way the old cable sat.
The attachment only needs to hold the first wraps. Once several layers of rope are on the drum, friction does the real work. That said, this is the one step where the rope manufacturer’s instructions are authoritative. If their method differs from what is above, follow theirs.
Step 4: Swap to a Hawse Fairlead
Remove the roller fairlead and install an aluminum hawse fairlead in its place. This swap is not optional. Roller fairleads develop grooves and burrs from steel cable, and those grooves pinch and slice synthetic rope under load. A hawse fairlead is a smooth, rounded opening the rope slides across, and it is lighter with a better approach angle as a bonus.
Two fitment checks when you bolt it on. First, make sure the fairlead opening lines up with the drum so the rope always runs on the fairlead surface. Installers recommend at least a quarter-inch gap between the winch plate and fairlead openings for this. Second, confirm the fairlead is rated for your winch’s line pull. Torque the mounting bolts to the fairlead maker’s spec.
Step 5: Spool the Rope Under Tension
This step decides how long your rope lives. Rope spooled on loose will bury itself into the lower layers on the first hard pull, damaging fibers and jamming the drum.
- Feed the rope through the new hawse fairlead and walk it out to nearly full extension, leaving the minimum wraps on the drum. Keep at least 5 full wraps on the drum at all times. Synthetic has less friction than steel, so this minimum matters more than it did with cable.
- Anchor the rope end to something solid: a tree with a tree-saver strap, another vehicle, or a fixed post.
- With the truck in neutral and the parking brake set, winch the truck toward the anchor under light power. You want steady resistance packing the rope on, not a max-effort pull.
- Guide the rope onto the drum in neat, tight, side-by-side rows with no crossovers. Keep your hands and fingers well clear of the fairlead. Never put a finger through the hook or loop to guide the last few feet; a moment of distraction can crush fingers in the fairlead.
- Once the rope is fully spooled, attach the hook or thimble to the rope end and fit the rubber line stopper so the hook cannot rattle into the fairlead.
Some installers spool the first 7 to 9 wraps under hand tension before switching to vehicle resistance. Either way, the goal is the same: tight, even layers from the very first wrap.
Step 6: The First Real Pull
Before trusting the new rope on the trail, make one controlled pull. Anchor to a tree, hang a damper on the line, keep everyone out of the line’s path, and make a moderate pull. Then inspect: the rope should sit in even layers, the drum attachment should be undisturbed, and the fairlead should show no sharp edges digging in. Recheck after your first few real uses. New rope beds in and may need a re-tension.
Maintaining the New Rope
Synthetic rope asks for a little more care than steel did. Rinse off mud and grit after dirty pulls, since embedded grit abrades fibers from the inside. Keep it out of prolonged direct sunlight when parked; UV degrades the fibers over time, which is one reason a winch cover earns its keep. Inspect the first few feet near the hook regularly, since that section takes the most abuse at the fairlead. If you see glazing, flat spots, or cut strands, retire that section or the whole rope. A rope is a wear item, not a lifetime part.
If this conversion is part of a bigger project, the step-by-step winch install guide covers mounting and wiring the winch itself, and the troubleshooting guide for a winch solenoid that clicks but won’t move is the place to start if the winch misbehaves after the swap.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can any winch be converted from steel cable to synthetic rope?
Most can, but check your winch maker’s guidance first. The main concern is heat from the internal drum brake, which synthetic tolerates poorly, and some makers approve synthetic only on specific models. If the maker says no, believe them.
Do I really need to replace the roller fairlead?
Yes. Roller fairleads wear grooves from steel cable, and those grooves pinch and cut synthetic rope under load. An aluminum hawse fairlead has a smooth surface the rope can slide across safely. Skipping this swap is the most common conversion mistake.
How many wraps of synthetic rope must stay on the drum?
Keep at least 5 full wraps on the drum at all times. Synthetic rope has less friction against the drum than steel cable, so it needs those extra wraps to hold securely. Mark the minimum point with tape so you can see it at a glance.
How do I attach synthetic rope to the winch drum?
Use the same attachment your winch used for the cable: a drum link with a set screw, a through-hole with a knot, or an anchor stud. The attachment only holds the first wraps; drum friction takes over after that. Always follow the rope manufacturer’s specific instructions.
Why must synthetic rope be spooled under tension?
Loose wraps let the rope bury into lower layers during a hard pull, which damages fibers and can jam the drum. Spooling under steady resistance packs tight, even layers that support each other. Walk the rope out, anchor it, and winch the vehicle toward the anchor to pack it on.